Buttery Bargee
Blog Entry: Wednesday 08 Jul 2009
Rose Prince explains: “The bargee or bargeman, whose job it was to transport coal, would place a bucket over a low fire, lower an earthenware crock into it, packed with meat and vegetables, and simmer it all day. A satisfying dinner awaited him in the evening, needing no extra work.”
“The bargee’s combined cooking operation was no more than the precursor of the modern electric slow cooker,” says Prince, so you can also make a modern version!
Prince describes how to take the traditional route: “Following the bargee’s instructions, I put a layer of diced swede in the base of an earthenware pot, followed by slices of pork belly, then a layer of parsnips and one of carrots. After I’ve added enough water to cover the contents, there’s the all important ‘‘heat seal’‘ – a rolled piece of suet pastry covering the meat and vegetables. Then the crock goes into the bucket, covered by a lid, and the whole thing simmers over an outdoor fire.”
“After an hour and a half, it is time to add the potatoes and a second layer of suet pastry. I cheat on flavour, tucking a large knob of butter, a strip of smoked bacon, half a wet garlic bulb and a few thyme sprigs among the vegetables. When I lift the pastry lid after two and a half hours, I inhale a puff of the most exquisite steam from underneath.”
“The meal is not particularly summery but, in among all the salads and grills eaten at this time of year, it has its place. An occasional bowl of buttery broth, with tender shreds of pork and vegetables – quite unspoilt by the long simmer – and strips of crusty suet pastry is delightful, though I stop short of bathing in the hot water.”
Read Rose Prince’s full article: Medieval stews are back on the menu at the Telegraph.co.uk.
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