Why Fat is Good
Blog Entry: Tuesday 03 Mar 2009
Renton is a big fan of a new book called Fat. Written by Australian-Canadian chef Jennifer McLagan, she claims that ‘fat is good and one of the most tragically abandoned materials of our modern, wasteful kitchen.’
McLagan argues that ‘the decades in which we spurned animal fats have spoilt our food and done nothing to improve our health: we substituted sugar, starches and “trans-fats” (hydrogenated vegetable oils) and ended up more obese and prone to heart disease than our ancestors were – Fear of fat is instilled into our consciousness.’
Renton discusses McLagan’s book while salivating over the traditional end of Lent ‘Jeudi Gras’ in Bordeaux which celebrates the end of fasting by feasting on gloriously natural fats and flavours.
‘If you want delicious, juicy steak it needs its oils,’ Renton writes, ‘...as the fat melts with the cooking it carries the molecules of flavour with it.’
‘Why do all the special low-fat foods that we’ve been persuaded are best for our health and our waistlines seem to contain so much salt, sugar and taste-enhancing chemicals?’ He asks and then answers: ‘Because that’s the trade-off – remove the fat and lose the flavour.’
‘Things are improving here,’ Renton concludes, ‘at least the margarine years are at last over and butter is respectable again. (Nutritionists say that butter may well have been as good for us all along). The generations that grew up on margarine-smeared sandwiches may consider litigation for all their lunch-box misery.’
Read the full article Why Fat is Good.
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